November 12, 2009

(Re)visiting the United States…

It is amazing how many things you see when you start to look at a place so familiar through a new perspective.  As I am currently visiting my sister in Wisconsin from the UK (a wonderful surprise from my sister that made my month/year!!) I stepped off the plane in Chicago and was amazed at the things that I realized about my once familiar country. 

Now I know you cannot generalize about the US, as every region is different and has its own people and personality…but some general observations such as the use of space, the flowing conversation of strangers, and the importance of car ownership…made me begin to realize how much I had become acclimated to my life in the UK.

As I reacquaint myself with the places and spaces that used to be so familiar…especially as I travel to TEXAS this weekend to visit a number of my closest friends I can’t wait to see what I (re)discover about my old home [did I mention that I was excited to be visiting Austin this weekend!!! I can hardly wait until tomorrow].

As much as I already miss the UK, I must admit it is nice to be in the same time zone as my friends again.

September 22, 2009

Living in London

I have made the move…I now officially have left my comfortable Oxford Ivory Tower, and have joined the masses in London.  I am currently looking for a job [had an interview on 20 Sept - so fingers crossed on that], and am living in temporary housing [aka not my own flat] in the South of London [Fulham Broadway].  I am existing in a sort of transitory state that is a bit terrifying. Never in my life have I not had a plan with all my little ducks in a row.  High School to Uni, Uni to Oxford, Oxford to London(??).  I think I chose London cause it would be a place to find a job, it would be an amazing experience, and when else in my life am I going to have such an opportunity.  That however does not mean it is not proving to be difficult.  Not having a place of my own, not having an income, not have the stability of knowing what to expect – it is scarier than getting on a plane to Pakistan [much scarier].

It is not that I don’t realize the ‘grass is always greener on the other side’.  I mean I have the luxury of a flat for a month, the freedom to explore London in the beautiful autumn weather, and sitting in cafes typing my little blog updates.  But that is all so temporary…I want to be on the monotonous 9 to 5 job and a steady paycheck side of the fence.

August 11, 2009

Back from Pak

This post is a bit delayed…

I returned from Pakistan on the 31st of July…after being there for about 5 weeks.  How do I begin to reflect on the past 5 weeks? How do I distill down my experience, in a way it is not possible, that is why I kept this blog, as sort of a running reflection of my time, and I think it was a successful experiment.  Clearly I was not able to capture everything, especially in the last week as I had/still am a bit ill [nothing that I hope it to bad, just nausea, general weakness, and when I was in Pakistan a bit of a fever].  With regards to this bit of a bug I must admit that I am glad to be back in the UK.  As I sit outside of a little sidewalk café with my coffee, whole grain toast with a bit of a crisp breeze prickling my neck and the sunlight filtering through the leaves of the towering deciduous trees my whole body calms.  In Pakistan I was in constant adjustment, constant reactions to the new experiences, which while exciting, can be draining.  So I am glad to be back…sitting, writing, reflecting…in solitude.

I wrote this little entry right after I returned from Pakistan…and now I can tell you that the way to distill down my experience is going to be a 15,000 word dissertation that I am currently trying to produce.

And, after being back a for a little over a week, I can tell you I still enjoy the solitude…but not the writing, definately not the writing.

I am also thinking of keeping my little blog going, for the write up…maybe beyond, as hopefully come the fall I will be moving to London to work while I figure out my life.

July 29, 2009

People are just People

Before posting this I also submitted it to Huffington Post’s new section on citizen reporting in Pakistan…so hopefully it will appear there too.

Increasing petrol prices, better schools for their children, poor community health facilities, rising unemployment–just a few of the everyday concerns of the people of Pakistan.  Are they so different?  Are they so drastically different to the concerns that “we the people” face everyday? My answer, no.  Because people are just people.  When we can take a moment to realize the humanity that lives within the borders of Pakistan then maybe we could stop living instead in the media induced, sensationalized, spoon-fed, tunnel vision world, and start living in one that actually reflects reality.

I have been living and researching in Pakistan for a month now.  An American girl, with roots in Texas, with a degree from the same congressional district of the George Bush ranch, I’ve been welcomed with open arms.  Welcomed into homes for tea, welcomed into people’s lives, welcomed into discussions about the state of Pakistan and US relations spoken in hopeful tones.

It is by talking to the people that you realize that they are plagued by similar problems and frustrations.  However, while Americans are thousands of miles away, sitting in air-conditioned offices reading report after report of terror and violence, the people of Pakistan live their daily lives, interspersed with power failure and the same reports [except when they read them, it could include family and friends].  Yet, this is not their whole lives; the terror and violence is just a portion of the situation.  Just as if you were understand the US from sensational news stories, you would think we exist as a nation of swine flu, Michael Jackson, and the economic crisis.  Yet people are more than that.  This reality is continually lost in translation: the translation of reality to media, the translation of people to politics, the translation of individuals to communities/nations.

What is needed is recognition of Pakistan a place filled with people, not so different from you, not so different than me.  Recognition that Pakistan is a fledgling democracy of 2 years [historically speaking Pakistan has been oscillating between military control and democracy for 53 years], and we are expecting it to act with the same power and institutional control as 233-year-old framework.  It is unrealistic.  Pakistan needs support, understanding and partners willing to communicate.  We needs to stop representing only the negative and sensationalized aspects of Pakistan, stop distilling a country down to a series of events, carried out by a extreme segment of the population that does not represent the country as a whole.

Discover the humanity of Pakistan, and that people are just people.

July 27, 2009

Posts…

I realize that I am quite behind on my posts…so I am going to try and catch up tonight sometime.  Here are the topics I hope to elaborate on…

-People are just people [my experience with the people of Pakistan...]

-My time in Lahore [especially my interview for SHE magazine]

-The finer side of Karachi that I have been experiencing lately [Sindh club, Thai food, Posh cafes and dinner former Ambassadors]

Also I want to mention how excited/jealous I am of my Amanda and her NEW JOB in Cali!! I know she will be an amazing, and they are fortunate to have such a smart, passionate, incredible force on their side to help them organize!

July 24, 2009

The responsibility of being a women

I wrote this a few days ago…I think it is still a work in progress

My frustration is building at my inability to have any real effect upon the communities that I am working in.  The other day [when I started writing this post] I literally almost started crying out of exasperation at the situational factors that exist here.  I think there are numerous factors that have contributing to my rising frustration…the most pressing being the gender work that I am trying to incorporate into my thesis, and the very personal connections that I have to it.
I think a number of aspects started to come together that swelled and intertwined to form a near breaking point.  The first is that I am reading a book on the Zina regulations [which is about the moral regulation of women, basically it is the regulations that make fornication and adultery crimes against the state of Pakistan…the regulations are highly contested in Pakistan, especially among women’s groups, especially because rape is subsumed under the zina category, meaning that ‘if coercion cannot be proved, the victim becomes an offender who has enjoyed illicit sexual activity’ the punishment could be jail, fines, lashes, and being stoned to death [this has never occurred though due to national and international pressures] however women have condemned to it].  A female Pakistani academic who now lives and works in Canada has authored the book, her name is Shahnaz Khan.  And among the many things that she highlights as limitations and frustrations is writing a book about Zina regulations that might reinforce the negative ‘western’ conceptions of Pakistan.  She tries to emphasize that work within Pakistan is being done about these unfair regulations, and it does not reflect the whole of Pakistan, nor does her writing conflict with her religion as a Muslim or the Islamic religious basis of Pakistan.  Within this same vein I feel conflict, as I have greatly enjoyed my time in Pakistan thus far, have been treated with nothing but respect and kindness, and have met many women that are highly educated and working to improve the conditions of women in Pakistan, but yet still come upon large gender disparities that hurt my soul [I don’t know any other way to describe it].  I also recognize that this is not a limitation of Pakistan, or Pakistani culture, nor is it a symptom of Islam.  Rather, I think Islam is used as a vehicle to perpetuate the ideas of men in power, that want to stay in power, and it is supported through the large poverty here which breeds a lack of education and awareness of women’s rights.
I realize that my opinions come from a first world place, not grounded in a specific religious doctrine.  That my view is one from that of an educated women, afforded the same opportunities of any men that I grew up with, and that my birth was not colored by disappointment in my gender [I hope].  I also realize that women in my culture can be subject to the same abuses, degradation and oppression that occurs here [which could almost be considered to be a worse offense in that we are afforded a free education that should protect us from such ignorance of inequality].   Yet all this does not change my frustration at what I see around me.  That women are denied education and basic human rights and dignity.  Again I believe this is more a symptom of the impoverished communities and conditions and not necessarily a reflection of a problem culturally specific to Pakistan.
For me, one of the most startling disparities is the treatment and respect that I am given, while the same cursory courtesy is not extended to the women in their own families.  My position as a foreigner from a respectable institution gives me both the advantage of being considered worthy of their time and respect [even to a certain degree their admiration] yet the disadvantage of being easily dismissed because of my lack of understanding of their situated reality.  From my position I can discuss with them the increasing responsibility of women, yet their complete lack of representation in the management of the resources, and they may say all the right things…‘that of course women should be considered as our equal and should have a meaningful role in management of resources and society as a whole…that they want to empower women’, but when I interrogate what ‘empowerment’ means they begin to talk in circles.  This is where my frustration starts to build, empowerment of women is not some politically correct party line that I need to be fed to feel better as a foreign women visiting Pakistan…it is a reality I want to see.  It is a reality that the women of Pakistan want to see…for themselves, their daughters and their sisters.
So I dive deeper into the gendered hole I am digging in this room full of men, CBOs [community based organizations…or maybe WWFs way of propping up an already existing feudal system of power…I am not quite sure yet]…if they are humor me with respectful answers I might as well try and provoke them to humor in a way they have not thought about before.  I pester onwards…‘What are the obstacles and threats of women meeting, of women having a voice in the community…having a say in how their resources that they increasingly contribute in producing are managed?’.  Platitudes are produced, ‘It is unfair, it is our mistake…’ I am uninterested in what you think you should tell me.  But the more I prod, the deeper they have to dig, the more reality I hope I am beginning to access.  They begin to answer with honest observations of their surroundings, ‘It is a male dominated culture, and women’s role is in the house and with the children.  It is an honor issue, what will other men say about outspoken women, challenging their power, they will make suggestions about their impurity, conflict will ensue.’  They also joke [in that way that jokes reflect a reality that you are somewhat embarrassed/uncomfortable to admit is true] that ‘women would stop performing their pre-defined roles in society, and the household would fall apart…who would cook their meals?!’
As they humor me and themselves with little jokes I start to see a larger picture come together.  I know that their exists this cultural hurdle that I will never quite make it over, and that maybe I will never be taken completely seriously, but through our interaction they have a conception of what women are capable of.  Even if it exists at a surface level, they see the possibility of women, and hopefully start to recognize this capability in their own wives and daughters.  Even more importantly I hope that women begin to realize these capabilities in themselves.  Maybe there begins a scratch in the surface…

July 21, 2009

Luxury in Lahore…

Just arrived in Lahore [a 7.30am flight, which meant quite the early morning [5.30am] for this little researcher…especially difficult withe lack of coffee in this country!].  Luckily Mehjabeen decided that it would be nice for us to enjoy a bit of a relaxation session, and put us up at the Lahore country club, on par with Sindh club – tennis courts, pool and all.

Although when Mehjabeen says relax, what she really means is stay at a lovely club with a jam-packed schedule in Lahore.  Today I have a 2.00pm meeting with Shirkat Gah [women's group in Lahore] to discuss the theoretical foundation of my gendered thesis work, then site seeing in Lahore with our driver Omar, then possibly a radio interview about our research.  Tomorrow we have a 9.00am start, for a 9.30am tour of Government College (GCU), then a presentation at GCU about our research to professors and others(?), then discussion of our work, lunch, and another presentation of our research to the WWF-Lahore office.  Then time with Mehjabeen to discuss our research, and the suggestions from the different presentations.  Then some museums, mosques, and other sites in Lahore with Mehjabeen, to be followed by dinner at her home. Thursday, refresh work and have a morning interview with SHE magazine of Pakistan, spend time with Mehjabeen, until check out at 4pm, and traveling to the airport for my 6pm flight back to Karachi.

Quite the busy schedule.  However it is nice to be out of Karachi for a bit, especially since they are going on 3 days of power outages due to the rain.  However their has been talks [and demonstrations] in Karachi suggesting the storms are just an excuse to cut and conserve power…hence the reason I have had no internet connection for a few days.

July 19, 2009

Monsoon Rains

The Monsoon rains have finally settled over Sindh.  Clearing the hot stagnant air, replacing it with a tempered coolness that nips at me, reminding me how quickly I had become acclimatized to warm weather.  The rain is not soft or gentle it is hard and purposeful, it is making a concerted effort to wash away the picked over trash piles of plastic bags and mango pits.  Yet, for all the effort and force the water begins to puddle and build on the streets, judicially distributing the trash back to where it once came.
The topography of the roads was evidenced by the pools and flows of the muddy rainwater, making driving an exercise in depth perception both horizontally and vertically.  How well you were able to gauge puddle depth determine if you would continue you on your way…or become another stalled delay to the flow of traffic.  Unlucky in the fact that today we had to make the two hour drive to the field site, but lucky in the experience and aptitude of our driver to navigate us safely there.
The rains not only highlight the poor drainage system of Karachi and the surrounding provincial area, but also the weak infrastructure of power delivery, as many lines snap and power becomes an even more precious commodity…one we are sparsely and unpredictably afforded at the field site.
It is nice though, in the evenings…the field site is calms from the lack of technology and harsh lighting.  The only thing to do is sit in the open air listening to the rushing wind and cicadas’ rhythmic murmurs.  It reminds me of the heavy summer rains in Arizona…drifting off to sleep with the windows open, the elemental sounds blowing in and out.

July 17, 2009

Another NSEP blog…

So I am not sure how much I support this blog by Mr. Eelke Kraak because of his affiliation with Bruno Latour…but I guess that is NSEP.  However knowing Eelke I am sure it will be clever, interesting and somehow include bops in Kazakhstan.  Here is a bit about his blog…

This blog will contain reports of my research fieldwork in Central Asia in the summer of 2009. I am reading for the M.Phil in geography and the environment at St. Hilda’s College, Oxford University and my dissertation research concerns the question what governs the Syr Darya River.

I will visit Central Asia between July 16 and September 14 to talk to people about the aforementioned question and related issues. Traveling through Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan I hope to trace the network that governs the Syr Darya, one of the largest watersheds of Asia and of vital importance for local and global economies, environmental sustainability and millions of people’s livelihoods.

I would also like to note that after checking Eelke’s blog, and seeing the picture of Bruno Latour I woke up this morning from and exam flashback nightmare that included Bruno ringing a giant bell, and my inability to remember a single author or year…thanks for that reminder Eelke.

July 17, 2009

An exercise in exclusivity…

As it turns out we [Miriam and I] are quite fortunate to be positioned in the WWF not only for our research purposes, but also for the little perks that it awards us.   Such as shopping with Mehjabeen, and having translators at our disposal, as well as interviews with high-ranking government officials…but today we discovered a new one: the Sindh Club.
The Sindh Club is a colonial legacy that is now a very exclusive private country club in Karachi.  Complete with formal dining halls, members cigar room, strict dress, no cell phone or camera rules, and the best part…a swimming pool and workout facility.  This might not sound like a big deal, but in Karachi it is near impossible to find a place such as this.  It is even more difficult to get accepted as a member.  It has a rigorous selection process, with nomination and board meeting followed by  individual meetings with members…etc etc etc.  So being able to visit as a guest is quite a treat [oh and by the way only women are aloud to be brought as guests, not men, however I don’t think women are aloud to be members, rather you must be a wife or child of a member].
So we spent the afternoon sitting in lounge chairs by the pool, the weather had cooled a bit after the first bit of rain that struck Karachi in the afternoon, sipping [non-alcoholic] pina coladas and discussing different topics, ranging from historical Karachi to economics.  It was quite lovely, and tomorrow we are going after work for a run and swim…I can barely wait!
Also in my excitement for my afternoon, I almost forgot the interest of my morning.  So as I am adding in a gendered component to my research [interrogating women’s rich understanding of local ecological knowledge, yet their invisibility from any policy or governance influence of the resource] I have been trying to locate my research in a body of literature.  And as my thesis is grounded in literature draw from an international scale, Mehjabeen suggested that I attempt to draw my gendered studies at a national scale, which would also lend a degree of situated relevance for the work I am doing.  I thought this sounded like a great idea especially considering that I only have a short time to research this area of my thesis because it is an additional component.  Thereby, by starting from a smaller body of literature I will be able to actually understand and situate my work properly.
Turns out, smaller body of literature is non-existent.  Allow me to clarify, their has been gendered work done, actually some really interesting and relevant work on women’s issues…however it is not academic literature.  Rather a sort of what would be called ‘grey’ literature, which makes it quite difficult for validity purposes at a thesis level.  And I know what you are thinking [ok, maybe what Amanda is thinking] that relevant work is more pressing and relevant to the women of Pakistan, and that shouldn’t that be a priority over publishing Pakistan ecological feminist theory that is removed from the practical and applicable aspects…and I agree.  However, this does not help my need for academic citation that carries a certain degree of legitimacy over ‘grey’ literature.  Although the women’s organization did refer me to the Lahore office, where I will be visiting next week, and the possibility to speak to one of the founding members of this women’s organization, which would be an amazing opportunity, and she might be able to point me in some sort of direction, perhaps regional?
Lastly, we had a bit of a rain today…first one since I have been here, and while I was in a meeting with the Pakistan Fisherfolk Forum during the brief downpour, walking outside afterwards was so lovely.  It cleared the stagnant and dusty Karachi air and lowered the temperature to a much lovelier mid-30s C [mid-90s F].
The other lovely side effect of rain was seeing all the children playing in the streets.  Splashing through puddles with high-pitched laughter shaking back their hair as it sticks to their face; partitioned the way that only children’s gossamer hair does.  Their innocence was palpable, reflective of that inner-child in all of us that is still tempted to run and jump in the puddles after a fresh rain.

Children after the rains...

Children after the rains...

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